The rugged, somewhat severe beauty of Santorini and Mykonos certainly has its appeal; this summer, though, it might be time to explore a rather greener side of the Greek islands. A trip to the Sporades – comprising Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonossis and Skyros, and some uninhabited isles – means strolling in fragrant pine forests, pottering through hilltop villages, swimming in some of Greece’s most dazzlingly clear waters, and even encountering rare wildlife and ancient shipwrecks.
With easyJet and Jet2 flying direct from the UK to Skiathos from May, it’s never been easier to explore the Sporades islands – each with their own distinctive charm.
Skiathos
The liveliest of the Sporades – but still with plenty of sleepy corners to enjoy a bit of peace beside the azure Aegean – Skiathos draws visitors with its 60-odd pristine beaches, close to 200 km of walking trails, historical treasures and bustling Skiathos Town (where you’ll even find some nightlife).
Do
No holiday in Skiathos is complete without a walk along the sands at Koukounaries – a sweeping golden crescent backed by pine forests, its name derived from the Greek word “koukounari”, meaning pinecone. Anyone wanting a history fix will enjoy exploring the remains of the Venetian Bourtzi fortress or hiking to Kastro, the ancient fortified capital of Skiathos, while the house-museum dedicated to celebrated author Alexandros Papadiamantis offers an introduction to one of the island’s most famous residents and a Greek literary great. End your day with a glass of the island’s finest at the Parissis Winery.
Eat and drink
Dine at Paraxenos in Skiathos Town for a refined take on taverna classics, or enjoy supper with sunset views at Platanos. For a spot of brunch or a sundowner, head to the bar at the Bourtzi, while coffee in the garden at Athos cafe, set next to the monastery in the village of Moni Evaggelistrias, makes a good rest stop.
Stay
To be in the heart of the action in Skiathos Town stay at Skiathos Senses, which has double rooms from £125 per night. Elivi Skiathos, close to Koukounaries, has a more luxurious bent, and rooms from £210.
Skopelos
Known as the true “Mamma Mia Island” – though a few scenes were also shot on Skiathos – Skopelos has retained its laid-back atmosphere and authentic feel, despite a boom in popularity caused by the hit film. More than half of the island is covered by virgin pine forest, with the landscape offering up a bounty of olives, plums, almonds and pine honey.
Do
Wander through the labyrinthine streets of Skopelos Town and explore the 13th-century Venetian fortress, or climb to the majestic Agios Ioannis chapel – standing 100m above the water – where the wedding scene in Mamma Mia! was filmed. Post-hike, slow things down amid the traditional houses in the sleepy hillside village of Glossa, before flopping down on Milia beach – regarded as the island’s most beautiful.
Eat and drink
Try kolokithokeftedes (courgette fritters) and stuffed squid at Stou Dimitraki in Skopelos Town, followed by an after-dinner drink at Vrachos Cocktail Bar. For a taste of village life, order the catch of the day at Flisvos in Loutraki, or hearty souvlaki pita wraps at To Louki in Glossa.
Stay
Doubles at Natura Boutique Luxury Hotel in picturesque Loutraki start at £135. For a resort feel with easy access to Skopelos Town, opt for Skopelos Village Hotel, which has rooms from £115.
Alonissos
Alonissos may be just 14km long and 4km wide, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in secluded coves, a postcard-perfect Old Town, and a fascinating range of marine life – good things come in small packages, as they say. Beloved for its friendly feel and gentle pace, Alonissos is the living embodiment of “siga siga” (“slowly slowly”): a local expression which espouses a lack of hurry and an altogether gentler approach to life.
Do
Swim at the striking horseshoe-shaped Agios Dimitrios Beach, seek out sand and shallow waters at Chrisi Milia, and nap under the olive trees at Megalos Mourtias. Along with six smaller surrounding islets, the island forms part of the National Marine Park of Alonissos – the largest marine park in Europe, and home to the rare Mediterranean monk seal.
On land, there’s the Mediterranean Seal Information Center in Patitiri (run by The Hellenic Society for the Study and Protection of the Monk seal, also known as MOm), while the park is a haven for divers thanks to the ancient shipwreck off the islet of Peristera, dating back to around 425 BCE. End the day ambling through the enchanting Old Town (Chora) as evening falls or shooting the breeze down by the water at the port of Patitiri.
Eat and drink
You haven’t experienced this place at its best if you haven’t eaten dinner under the vines at the Old Town’s Astrofegia. Thea, meanwhile, offers great views and a fresh take on Greek favourites, the result of which are savoury feta and manouri “cheesecake”, and Alonissos tuna with linguine, courgette and capers. For pre- or post-dinner drinks, sip on tsipouro with live Greek music at Hayati, or cocktails in the courtyard at Piperi.
Stay
You’ll find chic rooms with direct pool access and Aegean views at the Old Town’s Aletri Swim Up Hotel, where doubles start at £130. Alternatively, go green at the Ikion Eco Boutique Hotel, a short walk from the port of Patitiri, which has rooms from £89.
Skyros
Though the largest in this island family, Skyros is the least visited – meaning that this southernmost sibling is arguably the most unspoilt. While the familiar pine trees dot the island’s northern half, the south boasts a beauty of the wilder, rockier variety. This diverse landscape provides a striking backdrop to the sugar-cube buildings of Chora, and a natural playground for Skyros’s most adorable inhabitants: miniature Skyrian horses, the Greek version of Shetland ponies.
Do
Enjoy a beach day at Magazia or Molos, then absorb a bit of local history at the Byzantine castle or bronze-age city of Palamari archaeological site, or a dose of folklore at the Faltaits Museum. Animal lovers should make time for a stop at Mouries Farm, while those in search of peace (and a better understanding of Greek Orthodox tradition) will be richly rewarded for making the climb to the Agios Georgios Monastery.
Eat and drink
Tuck into ladopita pie stuffed with local cheese and Skyrian goat in lemon sauce at Taverna Agios Petros, or opt for fresh seafood at Asimenos. For a freddo espresso or evening beer, Rodon is a favourite local hangout.
Stay
Combine whitewashed architecture and private plunge pools at ALERÓ Seaside Skyros, which has doubles from £80 including breakfast, or self cater at Anemonisia Deluxe Apartments from £65.